Showing posts with label dubai. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dubai. Show all posts

Friday, July 26, 2013

This Week in Doha: Fasting, Garangao-ween, Unlawful Sex

Fanar offered non-Muslim expats three opportunities this week to share a "traditional" iftar experience (breaking the day's Ramadan fast by eating together) in a program titled, "Come Fast With Us."  Fasting before the meal was not required.  To enhance the experience, I decided to fast anyway.
 
Fanar: Qatar Islamic Cultural Center
 
Every year Muslims all over the world abstain from food and drink (this includes water) for the 30 days of Ramadan, from dawn (about 3:30am) to sundown (about 6:30pm).  All Muslims…excepting the insane or children under the age of 10 years.  Those who are sick, travelling, pregnant, nursing or menstruating are not expected to fast, but must reschedule the missed experience for a later date:  "a day for a day."  People who are old or chronically ill feed a needy person in lieu of fasting.
 
Ramadan occurs during the month of the Islamic ("Hijri") calendar when it is believed that the Holy Quran was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH: this means "peace be upon him" and is the English equivalent of what follows the Prophet's - PBUH - name or title).  Each year the date Ramadan begins changes slightly as the rhythm of the Islamic calendar is affected by the moon.
 
Fasting is one of the Five Pillars of Islam.  It is a gift to God, opportunity for prayer, introspection, self-reflection, empathy. If you're Muslim, fasting earns you reward in the afterlife.
 
The Five Pillars of Islam:
1.  Faith:  the Shahada
2.  Prayer
3.  Zakat:  charitable giving
4.  Fasting
5.  Pilgrimage: the Hajj
 
If you're non-Muslim, expect a body cleansing, soul freeing, emotion enhancing experience. Do not expect to earn points toward the (Islamic) Heaven.
 
How to begin fasting:

1) rise before dawn (unless you're the mom, sister, aunt or other able bodied female, in which case you get up even earlier to cook…or if you're like many young Muslims who stayed up all night feasting/playing, you would make your way home to gather with the fam and eat some more before the new fast begins).
2) enjoy a pre-fast meal called "Suhoor."  The meal may consist of anything you like except alcohol or pork, which are forbidden in Islam.
3) express your intention to fast: "I intend to fast today."
4) stop eating and drinking.
5) pray.
 
At dawn, approximately an hour and a half before sunrise, the muezzin chants the first Adhan, called "Fajr."  All eating and drinking ceases about 5 minutes before the call.
 
At 3:15am I drank a bottle of water, said a prayer.  Catholics, like Muslims, have standardized prayers - the Lord's Prayer, Hail Mary, Angel of God, etc.  But when I talk to God (especially at 3am) it's usually in the Baptist way, ie, a variation of this:
 
Dear God, Bless my babies, Chris, Katie and Kimberly, Krissy and Killian.  Bring them happiness, peace, joy, love.  Send angels to guide their decisions, guard their hearts and keep them safe.  Thank you for Amazing Bob, his wisdom, kindness and all the sacrifices he makes for our family.  Thank you for Mom and Dad and Kitty and Kay and Charles and Bernie and  (insert your name here).  Help us to love one other.  Let me make a difference in someone's life today.  Amen.
 
I won't detail the rigors of my first Islamic fast.  Let's just say:  it was difficult.
 
I read.  I napped.  I (tried to) write.  I watched "Dora the Explorer" in Arabic and baked brownies for the next day's Secret Ramadan Lunch.
 
The no-food part wasn't that big a deal for me.  The no-liquid part, however, was a moment-to-moment challenge.
 
(In the interest of full disclosure:  because of the extreme heat, I'd made plans to stay inside most of the day, which is not usual for me.  While temps soared to a scalding 105F, it was not humid and there was a rare, God-gifted breeze, so I was able to sit on the balcony.  I did not sleep the day away.  But I cannot claim to have done my "regular" thing while fasting.)
 
By mid-afternoon, I couldn't type straight anymore and my eyes had stopped working.  I was exhausted, dull, cranky and sad.  But I was no longer hungry or thirsty.  (Kind of like when you stop feeling cold just before you freeze to death?)
 
With the end of my first fast in sight, I joined a group of other non-Muslims at Fanar as Brother Domenic, a bearded Irish convert with Leprechaun-pink cheeks, twinkling eyes and an impish grin outlined Islam, explained Ramadan and detailed how fasting works.
 
Brother Domenic:  "When is orange juice like alcohol?" Answer: "During daytime hours in Ramadan."
 
The group separated by gender.  In the ladies' area, we sat on the floor and enjoyed the communion of (vacuum packed) dates and (bottled) water and a traditional rice, lamb and salad feast.  We learned more about Islam from an eloquent, fun and funny niqab-wearing convert from Virginia, USA, who speaks fluent Egyptian and Gulf dialects - and was the only participating Arabic speaker.  (To my knowledge there were no Qataris - or Arabs - present.)  Each guest received a tee shirt and a book about Ramadan.
 
tee shirt
 
Later, I ate a bowl of popcorn, nibbled a few cookies and fell asleep watching "Conan" (the talk show host , not the Barbarian).  I didn't feel the need to stay up all night eating, but then…I wasn't going to be fasting the next day (or the next or the next or the…) either.
 
Garangao
 
photo ops galore
 (camera trouble: please forgive pic quality!)
 
Once upon a time, the full moon on 14 Ramadan (the day that marks the celebration's half way point) meant children dressed in traditional costumes going door to door to collect treats and money from family and friends.  Today, tribes are spread throughout the city and unrelated multi-ethnic strangers hunker next door.  Instead of the traditional door to door-ing, parents and children gather at specified locations and, in the same way that America's Halloween has become "Trunk or Treat," children move from station to station showing off costumes in exchange for bags of candies and nuts.  (Click here to read more about Garangao.)
 
"Cauldron" of goodies outside a restaurant reinforces Halloween analogy
(same disclaimer about photo quality)
 
Garangao-ween (without the devils, demons, zombies and fairies)?
 
Garangao is a Gulf tradition.
 
Unlawful Sex
 
In March, 2013, a 24-year old Norwegian businesswoman from Doha is raped by a coworker while at a business meeting in Dubai.  She reports the assault and is charged with having unlawful sex, making a false statement and illegal consumption of alcohol.  She is sentenced to 16 months in prison.
 
Her (alleged) assailant, who is married, is convicted of public intoxication and having sex outside of marriage.  He receives 13 months in prison.
 
This week, following a world-wide outcry against the treatment and sentencing of the victim, all charges against the young woman are dropped.  She is pardoned by royal decree.
 
Since there is no longer a case, all charges against the (alleged) rapist are also dropped.
 
"While Dubai has a reputation as a cosmopolitan city that boasts Western influences, where visitors can drink at bars and restaurants and unmarried couples can share hotel rooms, the country adheres to Islamic laws and traditions.
 
Having sex outside of marriage and public consumption of alcohol are both violations of the law in the United Arab Emirates."
 
The young woman and her (alleged) attacker are both fired from their jobs in Doha for "drinking alcohol at a staff conference that resulted in trouble with the police." cnn.com
 

Friday, January 11, 2013

Doha to Dubai and Back Again

Dubai is to Doha what "going to the lake" is to Kansas City (Missouri, USA) - if you add a keg and maybe a few dancing girls.  Think: Worlds of Fun, Disneyland, Six Flags…all mixed up with a hefty helping of Las Vegas.  More amusement park than cultural experience.  More play than pray.
 
The call to prayer happens in Dubai, but the city isn't centered around it.  And, while it takes effort to find someone who speaks Arabic in Doha - (it appears that) no one speaks Arabic in Dubai. 
 
Still.  There are only two ways out of Qatar: drive through Saudi Arabia, a complicated, rule-rich endeavor (especially if you're travelling with a woman) or fly.  Dubai is close (45 minute flight).  Dubai is fun.  Dubai has the Burj Khaleefa:
 
Tallest building in the world, from the top
 
And the weekend we were there, Dubai had these two:
 
Love love love love them
 
Since it was my birthday, my mom, dad and sister, Kay, came along (via card):
 
Mom and Dad and Kay at the top of the Burj Khaleefa
 
Like Qatar, Dubai was once all about fishing and pearling.  Unlike Qatar, Dubai was already a bustling trade and tourist hotspot (thanks to terms like "tax free port") by the time oil was discovered in 1966 - nearly 30 years after the Peninsula's bonanza.
 
The core of (Dubai's leader, Sheikh) Maktoum's policies is economic freedom and the no-holds-barred promotion of Dubai, which makes the city a very fun place. By the mid-1990s, the Dubai Desert Classic had become a well-established stop on the Professional Golfers Association (PGA) tour. World-class tennis tournaments, boat and horse races, desert rallies and one of the largest air shows in the world attract millions of visitors to the city. Other high profile events, such as the Dubai Shopping Festival and Dubai Summer Surprises, bring hordes of tourists into town. Tourism matches trade and oil in importance to the emirate's economy.  (http://www.skidubai.com/dubai/history/)
 
The Dubai Shopping Festival was in full swing during our visit to the Emirate.  This is what that looked like:
 
every mall and other-which-where during our stay
 
We rode the Big Red Bus, toured the aquarium at Atlantis, saw beaches, parks, the tallest this and the biggest that.  Dubai's subway metro meant a holiday from Doha's crazy-making traffic.  Plus there were souks.  And penguins
 
Kimber and friend
 
We counted shark's teeth in an underwater tunnel
 
freaky stuff at the Dubai Mall
 
ferried across Dubai Creek in a wooden boat
 
abra ride only 1dh
 
ooed and ahhed at the Wafi Mall Egypt-themed light show, ate pizza, drank wine, got lost, stayed out late and made much merry.
 
Kimber, Katie, Bob at the top of the Burj Khaleefa
 
All while we MISSED CHRIS, KILLIAN and KRISSY - who celebrated her third birthday the same day as Nonnie (that's me).  And who all are so far, far away.
 
talking to Nonnie via Skype
I dare you to say this pic doesn't tug at your heartstrings (sniff)
 
I hear Oman is also a quick flight from Doha - and that they maybe speak their own language there (an Arabic dialect).  How unique!  We're thinking to visit.
 
But first…and next…home.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Dubai!


Come to Dubai: where you might view the horizon from the world's tallest building (if you can get tickets and if you can see the cityscape through the sand).  Visit the dolphinarium, underwater zoo, forts, museums.  Ride a camel, take a desert tour, play ice hockey, ice skating, sand bashing, dune buggy-ing.  Enjoy dhow, water taxi and bus rides, water and light shows, first run American and European movies.

And that's just day one.

Surf, swim and sun on sandy (manmade) beaches:


Goggle over strange architectural wonders from the Big Red Bus (the same open top vehicle London made famous): 

There is snow skiing in Dubai:


There is drinking in Dubai:

There is shopping in Dubai:


There is green in Dubai:

(According to the Big Red Bus's taped tour guide, Dubai has the highest water consumption in the world; it takes 250 million gallons of wet stuff a day to keep this desert city green.)

There are malls a-plenty in Dubai - with merry go rounds, amusement parks, zoos, restaurants, souks and more…indoors, out of the blazing equatorial(ish) heat.

You won't need a car to "do" Dubai, either: there's a clean, easy access New York style subway "Metro" - along with buses and taxis too.

So, g'on now:  come to Dubai!

…unless you're expecting to learn Arabic - or experience actual Middle Eastern culture, values and traditions.

According to a local source (and personal observation), only 20% of the people who live in Dubai are Emiratis.  The rest are from the Philippines (and maybe one or two other places.)  Sure, ads are in Arabic and English - but a lot of signs are in English only.  There are posted reminders to "please respect our traditions by covering your knees and shoulders" but people still dress in all manner of non-Islamic respecting ways: tube tops, shorts, flip flops…and those are the men.  Female tourists wear backless dresses and see-through skirts with sandals - which make it easier to recognize the prostitutes because they mostly wear high heels.

Oh, yes - there is prostitution in Dubai.  One website claims that after oil was discovered and foreigners poured into the country, locals kidnapped expat wives, used - and returned - them.  When foreigners, um…balked…at such practice, leadership thought again, and began importing women for said purpose  (http://www.dubai-information-site.com/prostitution-in-dubai.html).

If you're a pretty, young girl (ie, MY DAUGHTER), please don't "do Dubai" solo.

In truth, we did hear the call to prayer - once - piped into the mall.  We did see a few traditionally garbed families.  As in Doha, there is a cultural center in Dubai, tasked with sharing information about local customs and Islam. But really - why bother?  Dubai may be in the Middle East, but it's not "Middle Eastern."

Go horseback riding instead.
More pics: