Showing posts with label museum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label museum. Show all posts

Friday, June 13, 2014

How to Read Arabic: Four Easy Steps

Arabic Calligraphy made out of Arabic Calligraphy
 
It was a simple list of Arabic words, neatly typed in easy to read font, evenly spaced and aligned in a column. "What does it say?" said my friend.
 
I recognized letters, identified familiar words, comprehended general meaning. But understanding shrouded itself in my mind like a fortress sealed for battle. I returned the page in defeat.
 
"That's okay." She shrugged. "I'll ask someone else."
 
Ouch.
 
As I see it, there are four steps to reading Arabic:
 
1) Identify letters.
 
The language does not utilize capitals or "cursive," but there are three shapes for each of Arabic's 28 letters, plus vowel markings, dots and sometimes dashes. There's stylized and sloppy writing, contracted spelling, stacking, dropped dots, added curls, lines, circles, hooks.
 
two ways to write Daad
 
And there's Arabic calligraphy with its flourishes, lines, circles, vowel markings and decorative symbols:
 
this says: "Al Jazeera"
 
الجزيرة
this says "Al Jazeera" too
 
Reading Arabic is often a rousing game of "Where's Waldo" but with letters instead of people.
 
2) Read the word.
 
Congratulations, you've located the letters! Now you're in a position to make sounds. In English this is the part where your index finger hovers over diphthongs, blends, consonants, vowels. Is the sound long or short, hard or soft, speak its name or remain silent?
 
Reading in Arabic requires the same step, only without vowels, which, by the way, do not commonly appear in the everyday literary Middle East scene - ie, newspapers, street signs, television commercials, correspondence, textbooks, event flyers.
 
"(Vowels) are for babies," said Teacher. "You will understand from context."
 
Kitty likes her harakat (those squiggles over the letters: vowels)
"Kitten," from an idea by Andrea Dami, illustrations by Tony Wolf, Text by Silvia D'Achille

Oh yeah, you're expected to elucidate vowels when reading. It's just that they're not provided (once you graduate from board books).

3) Comprehend meaning (of individual words).
 
Way to go! You've identified letters and applied sound. Now you may translate.
 
Only…factoring in the million or so Arabic dialects, Koranic use, invisible vowels and what happens to meaning when you add "the," conjunctions, prepositions or adjectives…each word in Arabic has approximately 400 different definitions. (I might be exaggerating but only slightly.) Some meanings are literal and unique like, for example, this word:
 
شعر
 
which may mean poetry, to feel - or hair - depending upon where your mind applies that missing vowel.
 
اشعر الشعر و الشعر.
 
I feel poetry and hair.
 
Other meanings are less literal, like this word:
 
فكر
 
which is pronounced "fakkr" (yes I know what it sounds like in English) and means, generally, "to think" (along with variations on the theme like "contemplate, idea, intellect, consider…")
 
(When a different invisible vowel is applied) this combination of letters also refers to a prayerful thinking-on-God activity called "fikr" where observant Muslims caress prayer beads and speak God's name over and over. This form of contemplation results in heavenly reward.
 
prayer beads
 
"One minute of fikr is equivalent to a year of worship, and one hour of fikr competes with 60 years of worship."
 
4) Understand.
 
You've found the letters, recognized words and have a general idea as to meaning. Now, relax. Drink tea. Release understanding into your mind in the way that steam floats from a mug of sweet Arabic coffee to warm cold fingers on a snowy day.
 
Snow in Egypt, 2013
 
At least that's the idea.
 
words shaped like a flower
 
Hours later, long after my friend and I had gone our separate ways, understanding danced in my head like rain over the Sahara: too late.
 
Arabic isn't just nouns, verbs, adjectives (and a bunch of other things that don't translate). It's more like an orchestra of colloquialisms strung together by sound. You don't translate as much as absorb the secrets in the melody and rejoice in the harmony of understanding.
 
But first, you must locate the letters, drink tea - and wait.
 

Friday, February 7, 2014

Sheikh Faisal's Museum: Not in Kansas Anymore

Dawn, Samantha, Eva, Mary Anne, Lynnette
 
This week - an escorted peek into the vast and diverse assortment of treasures lining the walls, dotting windows and shelves, inside nooks, around corners and behind doors at the Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim al Thani Museum, Qatar:
 
poster on display at Sheikh Faisal's place
yes, really
 
Qatar has museums: the Museum of Islamic Art, Arab Museum of Modern Art (Mathaf), Alriwaq (currently exhibiting the controversial work of artist Damien Hirst), Qatar National Museum (under construction).
 
And Qatar has National Treasures: Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani and his castle sized, floor to ceiling, fantastically diverse, nationally renowned museum of eclectic wonderment.
 
Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum
housed in an old fort just outside Doha, Qatar
 
It started as an assortment of the sheikh's personal and family memorabilia: the desk he used as a child, his crayon masterpieces, watches, money, prayer beads, mom's ancient washing machine, an old mouse trap. Today it's an ever expanding 17,000 piece, personally assembled collection of treasures from countries, cultures and religions all around the world - but especially Qatar.
 
museum entry hall
 
Guns, knives, furniture, photographs, documents under glass. Paintings, statues, gowns, robes, headdresses, carpet, teeny tiny Korans. An actual Syrian house with marble floors, carved and painted walls, lanterns, plus outdoor majlis and (interior) winter room. A family's desert tent, minaret, pearling dhows - and an honest-to-goodness well, dug deep into the earth to demonstrate how difficult it was for early Qataris to acquire water.
 
The sheikh's museum bursts with halls stuffed with ancient plain and ornate Middle Eastern style doors.  Rooms overflow with mirrors. There are swords and guns in the windows. Glass cases packed with precious mother of pearl items, old currency, other-era shoes. An airplane hangs from a ceiling above a model of a desert camp. There is a reconstructed Qatari home, a family wedding display, traditional clothing.
 
plane, cars, camp, dhows, minaret and more
 
But that's not all. There are fossils, dinosaur bones and eggs, a monster's relic skull and teeth encased in rock. A flamingo skeleton, shark teeth, smooth obsidian, desert roses. Limousines. Tiny trucks for little sheikhs.
 
Samantha with tiny truck
 
And vintage cars. Hundreds - literally hundreds - of cars.
 
purportedly Sheikh Faisal's sons take the cars
(any/all/whichever they want) out on Fridays
 
Of course automobiles didn't come to Qatar until oil, the Brits and roads arrived in the 1940s-ish. And Sheikh Faisal's collection is not limited to one era, decade, culture or even a single religion. There is a room full of Jewish memorabilia, another which highlights Christianity and includes an old confession booth. A third space features artwork from other religions.
 
The collection is currently organized according to the sheikh's interests and travels and displayed by acquisition date - which (even with the homey, hospitable carpets placed throughout) means it's impossible to absorb everything in a single visit. Or, well…ever. Unless you're particularly knowledgeable about history, that is…since there are few labels or other expositional materials available.
 
Fortunately, Sheikh Faisal is a forward thinking kind of guy and recently hired an interesting, knowledgeable historian with an internal database that includes analyses of the Ottoman Empire, Muslim brotherhood, history of the pyramids and world architecture plus Ford (the car) and Dorothy (of the ruby red shoes). Who answers questions about money in good humor: "the sheikh does not reveal an item's cost because (his workers) would want more money!"
 
Samantha, Dawn, Eva,
Nabil the Knowledgeable Historian
 
This knowledgeable historian's mission is to catalogue and organize artifacts, ie, identify, designate, tally, tag, classify, label and otherwise notate displays. Also on the horizon: a bookstore, museum guidebook, expanded website and personal tours. Huzzah!
 
Bring your walking shoes.  You're not in Kansas anymore!

 Factoids:
  • Qataris arrived approximately 1850 from Saudi Arabia in search of pearls.
  • There are nine original tribes in Qatar.
  • In Qatar, sheikh and sheikha are titles bestowed upon members of the royal family.
  • One should stand when a sheikh or sheikha enters the room, regardless of age.


 
Nabil the Knowledgeable Historian,
Eva, Dawn, Mary Anne, Samantha, Lynnette
 
 Sheikh Faisal's Museum is about 30 minutes outside Doha, across the road-under-construction from Shehaniyya and the camel race track. Visits are by appointment only.