Friday, October 25, 2013

Evening at the Souq

سوق شعبي
Souq Sh'bee: The Popular Market
aka Doha's famous Souq Waqif
 
listen -
 

many calls
to prayer
horses
Bob
 
guy in green
scoops and
disposes of
what falls when
horses are out
 
wait -
 

 
horses circle tile streets
over and over and over
clip clop

 sup -
 
 
 
salad and
bread with
fried halloumi cheese
served in a pan
salty
delicious
 
too hungry
for pictures
yum

wander -
 
 
into the souq's
sparkling
clean
alleyways
 
Pashmina?
You want pashmina?
Red pashimina?
Blue pashmina?
Pink, purple, green?
Pretty pretty, pretty
pashmina?
 
need a sign:
no pashmina, thanks
 
 follow -
 

 
ladies
shopping and
old guys in
burgundy vests
moving stuff
stall to stall
here to there
by wheelbarrow
 
one sits
in his cart as
ladies
pass

 watch -
 
 
demonstration:
how to create
new
old
stuff
gifts for
the folks back home

shop -
 
 
rows of bright
haloo:
candy
 
 buy - 
 
 
hats
 
plastic shoes, dolls, ceramic camels, bobble head toys, mother of pearl boxes, book stands, tee shirts, blankets, towels, pillows, kitchen utensils, blenders, bracelets, clocks, watches, baskets, lights, lamps, clothes, pots, pans, prayer rugs, abaya, sheyla, beads, coasters

whatever you want
it's here
somewhere
probably
 
Hanging out at
Souq Sh'bee
One cool winter evening
Where it's
All Things Qatar
(and other places)
All day
Every day
 
(after 8:30am-ish
and excepting Friday mornings
or any afternoon
between noon and 4pm-ish)
 

Saturday, October 19, 2013

This Week in Doha: Oman

R&R time
 
Qatar-bound Westerners trek to Oman in the way that Missourians "go to the lake."  This is Middle America-Speak for: run up to Hy-Vee for chips, hot dogs, buns, marshmallows.  Gather fishing rods, floaties, towels, waterski equipment, barbecue tools, sleeping bags.  Drive 2-4 hours (in any direction) where holiday-making ensues.

The only way out of Qatar overland is through Saudi Arabia - a complicated endeavor that requires weeks of embassy hoop-jumping, reams of paperwork, proofs of things like income, nationality, marriage.  There are limits as to how long a person may be in country, rules about with whom and how a woman may travel and many, many other considerations that make a road trip out of Qatar difficult to, well, not feasible.

So when it's vacay, git outta Dodge, needa break time (most Qatar expats and others) fly - a quick trip to Dubai, UAE or a short hop to Oman (other weekend possibilities are Bahrain and Kuwait).  Inexpensive, one hour (and less) flight to history, culture, shopping…food, fun, beach.

This trip, Bob and I did Oman, where we stayed at a "cute little place" just outside Muscat:

popular getaway location for Qatar's expats and locals
 
we stayed here
 
this is what we did: ahhhhhhh

The official national language of Oman is Arabic, just like Qatar's.  There is sun, desert, men in dish-dashas and ladies in abayas, just like in Qatar.  Money is the Omani rial and only comes in paper (ie, no coins).  There are souks stuffed with people…
 
Mutrah Souk
 
forts…  
overlooking Mutrah bay
 
interesting historical displays in front of official looking buildings…
 
seen enroute

mosques…
overlooking Corniche

camels…
beach camel ride, anyone?

and a Corniche crowded with men from (India, Nepal).
 
expansive Corniche overlooking the water between Muscat and Mutrah

Unlike Qatar, Oman features miles of beauteous rocky mountains
 
GOHJUS - but very little vegetation (wouldn't want to get lost out there) 

Also unlike Qatar, we met local people…everywhere.
"With limited oil revenues…a policy of 'Omanisation' in every aspect of the workforce is rigorously pursued…" (Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula, Lonely Planet, 3rd Edition, September 2010.) 
Omanis are taxi drivers, hotel maintenance staff, managers, servers, shopkeepers and more.  Many spoke English, but most seemed to prefer a slow mix of easy-to-understand colloquial Arabic.  No rapid fire, head spinning language lessons here:  "Kayf hal?" (How are you?) said the bellhop.  "Matar?" (Airport?) said the taxi driver.  And to our affirmative "aye-ee-wah, matar, shukran" (yes, airport, thank you) - nobody laughed. 

Nice.