Friday, December 13, 2013

How to Get a Speeding Ticket in Doha

cameras placed strategically throughout Doha
photograph errant expat (and other) drivers in action
 
In America.  How to obtain a moving violation:  drive too fast.  Watch rearview mirror for black and white sedan with strobing red and white lights.  Pull to side of road, unroll window, wait.
 
Snap of door opening, closing.  Keys jangling, heels on pavement, rush of passing traffic, bitter exhaust.  Blue uniform with hat, belt and holstered weapon.  Hand on hip, officer bent at waist, stern face in window, smooth Old Spice cologne.
 
"License and registration, please."
 
Tattle tale lights flash.  Cars slow to pass.  Children point from back seats, laugh:  Speeder!
 
Pounding heart, tears.  The shame.
 
surreal, sardines-packed-in-a-can, Doha traffic
too many cars for personal attention between officers and rule breakers
 
In Qatar.  How to obtain a moving violation:  you have to look it up.
 
Link
enter your Qatari id, license plate number, establishment ID
download the phone app to view others' violations while stuck in traffic
 
In Doha, yellow and white cameras situated at intersections and along highways weed through the crush of sedans, SUVs, trucks, semis, motorcycles to photograph plate numbers and assign violations, such as:
  • exceeding posted speed limit - 500 QR
  • not giving adequate signals as required - 200QR
  • driving a vehicle at abnormal low speed that may obstruct traffic movement without a good reason - 300QR
  • motorist does not abide by the automatic traffic signals (running a red light) - 6000QR
  • driving a vehicle in the wrong direction - 6000QR
Link: traffic offenses that can be settled by paying a fine.
 
Caught on Camera
Somewhere in Doha
Bob or Cindi (but probably Cindi):
 
November 9, 2013, 7:06 AM, Al Bidda (per website) or the Corniche (per agency):
"The motor vehicle's operator exceeds the maximum speed limit on the road"
 
There is no summons, notification, letter in the mail.  No flashing lights, jangling keys or holstered guns.  Nobody knocks on your door.  Errant behavior is recorded on the website and stays there until the fee is paid.  Whether you're a bad driver, in the wrong place at the wrong time or somewhere else altogether, it's possible to rack up violations and fees while living in blissful ignorance - working, shopping, taking the kids to school.
 
As long as you don't try to leave the country.
 
registered vehicle owners with unpaid violations
are stopped at the gate
 
Since the infraction is assigned to the car, it's the registered owner's responsibility to review the website for violations and pay fines.  This is a benefit to expats who lease a vehicle as the rental agency's name is attached to the car, not the driver's.  A service agent regularly checks the traffic website and emails request for payment.
 
"Kindly settle the attached traffic ticket..."
-email to Bob from Doha based car rental company, three weeks later
 
Suppose, like one of Bob's coworkers, you receive notification about a violation that ostensibly occurred on a day, place, time in which you and your car weren't present.  Nobody else drives your car.  You never speed.  There's too much traffic on that road at the stated time for anyone (except the young men in dish-dasha driving white Suburbans) to "exceed the posted limit."
 
It's Christmas and you have plans to travel.
 
You could request more information:
 
This is you, right?
Traffic Department's proof of Bob's car's violation (edited)
 
Hire a lawyer:
 
http://qatarlawyer.com/
expensive and time consuming; still can't leave the country
 
Or just pay the toll - and go home (for the holidays).
 
Bob in Paris, 2013
good sport, good friend, good lookin'

Friday, December 6, 2013

Arabic in America

Kimber studies culture and language
Doha, 2012
 
"…The meaning of al-Salam Alaikum is informing the person who is greeted that he is in peace and safety from all kinds of mischief from the side of the greeting person…"
 
In My America, the cashier at Target wears a head scarf.  "Salaam Alaykum," I say.
 
She peeks at me out of the corner of one eye, whispers, "Wo alaykum..."
 
"…Imam Ibn Majah…'If they greet you saying al-Salam Alaikum (peace be upon you) reply them with Wa Alaikum (and upon you too)'…"
 
"Do you know Arabic?"  I ask, in English.
 
She's from Togo where French is the national language and English is widely spoken.

She smiles.  "I'm learning."
 
"That's great!" I reply, in Arabic.  "I'm learning too.  Please, will you speak with me?"
 
She laughs and says in English, "No, stop.  I don't know this."
 
"But don't you read the Koran?  I'm learning the Arabic of the Koran."
 
"My husband does.  He's studying Engineering here.  He tries to get me to read the Koran."  She shakes her head.  "I want to learn before we return to Saudi Arabia."
 
"If you speak Arabic with me we can both practice."
 
Katie
Doha, 2012
 
The next time I see her, she's wearing a dark blue snow cap over a black headband.  "My husband was asleep when I left this morning."  She shrugs, adjusts the cap.  "It's fine as long as my hair is covered."
 
She speaks to me only in English.
 
The next - and last  - time I see her, she's wearing a beautiful black and white sheyla.  She goes to break as I approach her line; she does not return my smile.
 
"…the Prophet said: "Do not greet the Jews and the Christians before they greet you and when you meet any one of them on the roads force him to go to the narrowest part of it…"
 
 
 
In Doha, I'm often asked why I want to learn Arabic.  "Because I live here!" I reply.  Perhaps it's also true that since I studied Arabic in my youth I'm drawn to the inflections, intonations, highs, lows - the language's uniquely musical qualities.  I like the way one word or phrase can mean many different things.  That God is part of everyday speech, whether greeting a person, introducing an idea or baking a cake.  How there are so many responses to "I hope you're well" it can take 20 minutes to get past "hello."
 
Sometimes I wonder if Arabic is a language or a religion.
 
"…'al-Salam' (peace, safety) is a Name, Attribute, and Act of Allah, so pronouncing this word is a supplication of Allah. Therefore, this great word should be protected from those who do not believe in it but they are enemies of Al-salam (a name of Allah). Thus when the Prophet wrote letters to the kings of Kuffars he wrote in the beginning 'Peace be upon those who follow the Guidance'; he did not write Kuffars the expression 'Salaam alaikum.'"
 
In America, as in Doha, I study alone at my kitchen table or with other non-native speakers.  I read children's books, watch children's videos, listen to Middle Eastern music and write emails, stories and poems.
 
It's not enough.
 
"…The ideal way to learn a foreign language is by conversing with native speakers…"
 
Yesterday I mail a package at the post office.  A man passes me carrying a baby.  Behind him steps a woman in abaya and sheyla.  She glances at me.
 
"Salaam alaykum," I say.
 
She smiles, surprise lighting her face.  "Wo alaykum salaam."
 
"A smile is a gift and counts as a form of charity."
- Qatari teacher at Fanar, the Islamic Cultural Center, Doha, Qatar
 
 
How to Speak Arabic
Lesson 1?